Custom Fabric Flowers by M&S Schmalberg Inc.

A week ago, I visited M&S Schmalberg, a custom flower manufacturer that has been in the Garment District since 1919.  I was warmly greeted and given a thorough tour of their showroom and factory.  I can't say I had ever thought that much about fabric flowers, but the skilled craftsmanship I saw on display blew me away.  All the flowers are made on the premises by a process that involves cutting, starching and steam pressing to create individual leaves and petals that are then layered and assembled into flowers (if desired) or used as is for appliques on garments, accessories, or even as a basis for constructing accessories such as purses.  For those who think of fabric flowers as something "old" or "traditional", the people at M&S Schmalberg are open to pretty much any creative possibilities and ideas their clients come up with, and are delighted to see their flowers used in unique or unconventional ways.  So do take a look at their beautiful website, stop by the showroom in person to check out the multitude of flowers they have in stock and be inspired by antique tools and dyes, or even browse their frequently updated Facebook page.

 

Only a few of the flowers in stock, as well as some of the antique tools in the factory

Custom Fabric Flowers by M&S Schmalberg Inc.
242 W 36th Street
7th Floor
New York, NY 10018
Tel. (212) 244-2090
       (212) 244-2091

Albrizio Millinery

A couple weeks ago, I finally made it over to Albrizio Millinery and successfully had two hats constructed in record time.  Albrizio is a slice of hat heaven in New York City.  With their vast assortment of hat blocks, expert craftsmanship and a true love for hat-making the folks at Albrizio, under the direction of David Steele (Ann Albrizio's nephew), are eager, knowledgeable and wonderful to work with, even if you're just a beginner like myself.  In less than an hour, David had shown me around the workplace and gave me a basic rundown of hat blocking and sewing hats from straw braid.

assortment of wooden hat blocks at Albrizio

We started off with a wool felt hood (purchased at Manhatco Hat Supply), which was blocked into a dramatic tall cone-shaped hat with a flat top:

the wool felt hood was sequentially steamed, stretched and roped into the block shape

more steaming and tightening with the ropes helped give the hood its characteristic grooves

as the hat is steamed some more, it conforms precisely to the hat block shape

The hat brim was then trimmed and finished with a grosgrain sweatband, and sized to maintain its shape.

The second hat, made out of a multi-color Italian straw braid (also purchased at Manhatco), was slightly more tricky.  David began sewing the hat and gradually molded it to the turban hat block I had selected:

David Steele sewing the straw turban with a chain stitch machine

after the hat was sewn, it was also steamed and roped around the hat block to create the final shape

I am planning on doing some more things with these hats, so you'll have to stay posted for additional photos of the finished products.  In the meantime, feel free to take advantage of the great resource that is Albrizio, one of the most knowledgeable, friendly and accommodating vendors I have encountered in the Garment Center.

Albrizio
30 W 39th Street, 4th floor
New York, NY 10018
tel. 212.719.5290  (call first)
Monday-Friday 9:30-4:30 pm

"fashion is the armor to survive the reality of everyday life" -- Bill Cunningham

The other day, I went to see "Bill Cunningham New York," the documentary on the famous street fashion photographer for the New York Times.  It was a wonderful and well put-together film that held my interest visually and emotionally, and painted a cohesive (though I'd hesitate to call it in-depth) portrait of the mysterious and quirky character that is Bill Cunningham.

A little known fact to most, and the main reason for this blog entry, is Cunningham's first steps into the fashion industry working as a milliner.

(I highly recommend checking out this From the Archives with Bill Cunningham video feature on the New York Times website to see several photos of Cunningham's hats with colorful commentary by the man himself.  You can also view a slideshow of Bill Cunningham hats here.)
Cunningham's creations are incredibly original and witty, and brought a smile to my face.  Perhaps he was a little too avant garde for his time, but I'm surprised his millinery is not featured more prominently in fashion history.  Looking at his hats, I can see how he lived out one of his credos: "Lots of people have taste; few are daring to be creative."

Also worthy of note was the section where Cunningham stops by a "Save the Garment Center" demonstration.  Cunningham considered this a lost cause saying, "It's too late."  I do hope he's wrong about that.

There are several things I will take away with me from this movie, and several things that have put me in deep thought since I saw it.  But it was the proclamation that brought Cunningham himself to tears when he uttered it that sums things up the best: "It's as true today as it ever was: he who seeks beauty will find it."

Dersh Feather & Trading Corp.

feather inspiration boards right off the elevator at Dersh

About three weeks ago I had the pleasure of stopping by Dersh Feather, an exquisite feather supplier in the Garment Center.  Established in 1918, Dersh not only has an incredible selection of feathers for a variety of uses including millinery, costumes and high fashion, but is also headquarters to a friendly and knowledgeable staff.  During my impromptu visit, Jon, the manager, and Jay, the owner, gave me a tour and crash course in different types of feathers, feather terminology, and even treatments and techniques.

Top right and left: Reeves's Chinese Pheasant feather

Jon pulled out a number of unique and interesting feathers for me, the most prized of which was the sizable Reeves's feather coming from a type of Chinese pheasant.  Not a feather for the faint of heart (or wallet), Jon cited this feather as being the kind used by designers such as Project Runway's Irina Shabayeva.

Even with an ordinary color like white, there are a ton of possibilities at Dersh

Needless to say, Dersh is a go-to source for Broadway costumes, and the white feather fan (top left) will be featured in the upcoming musical "Catch Me If You Can."  Jon also introduced me to the biot (bottom left) which is made from the matted half of feathers (I see lots of creative possibilities there).

more feathers that make an impression

Jon also mentioned some of the treatments that can transform feathers, offering even more creative possibilities, such as dyeing (see the yellow feathers above) and acid burning (see the red feathers above).

wild turkey feathers

Finally, Jon opened up his latest shipment: an assortment of wild turkey feathers.  Rugged, natural, bold.  Because what could be more American than that?

Dersh Feather & Trading Corp.

25 West 38th Street 6th Floor

New York, NY 10018

tel: 212.714.2806

fax: 212.239.1407

http://www.dershfeather.com

Manhatco Hat Supply

On Friday afternoon I visited Manhatco, a millinery supply company.  There I met Raymond, the owner, who was kind enough to show me around and explain even the most basic items they sell.  Manhatco has all the supplies needed to make both felt and straw hats, including hat bodies, straw braids, ribbons, wire and feathers.

 

Being a hat lover, I've seen (and own) many wool felt hats, so I was especially drawn to the more unique and high quality finds, such as the rabbit fur felt bodies and imported straw braids.

Looking at the textured hat bodies was also inspiring; as someone who leans toward less complicated designs, I'm well aware of the power of fabric treatments and textures.  Manhatco had some valuable options for me to consider as I move forward with my designs.

 

Manhatco Hat Supply

124 W 30th Street, #304A

New York, NY 10001

M-F 9:30 am-5:30 pm

An extensive catalog of supplies can also be found on their website.

a blog is born

The Manhatter is an offspring of The List, a Fashion Vendor Directory -- a project conceived by Julia Gorton, a teacher at Parsons the New School for Design in New York City. The List is first and foremost a resource for students in the School of Fashion who are looking for fabric suppliers, pattern-makers, and other vendors that will help them manufacture their designs. However, The List is also a way to showcase the many wonderful businesses that are found in New York City's Garment Center, as a way of supporting and promoting this historic district.

While a directory of vendors is a valuable resource, some people (myself included) may find the options overwhelming. What better way to show what can be done with this wealth of resources than to actually make something? And that's where The Manhatter and I come in. A student of Julia's in the Fall of 2009 and a current sophomore majoring in Fashion Design at Parsons, I will be designing and producing a small collection of hats inspired by and made exclusively in New York City with the help of The List. This blog will chronicle my process and present the various vendors I will use. It will also include any experiences related to this project, from fun stories about the people I meet along the way, muslins and hats in progress, sketches, and points of inspiration and reference.

I hope you'll find The Manhatter useful, entertaining and inspiring. I also hope it will make you think about the beauty of what I consider one of the most democratic items of clothing in modern times -- the hat.