Showing posts with label Albrizio. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Albrizio. Show all posts

Tuesday, August 23, 2011

current work in progress

First of all, I came across another straw hat I wanted to share.  The liberties designers/milliners have taken with straw hats over time never cease to amaze me.

1923 embellished straw cloche from Vintage Textile

I've been working on a small number of different hats at the same time, as well as my rising junior summer assignment which is due on the first day of class (next week... eek!).  A large part of the assignment is to design a collection, with accessories to complement it.  Shoes are more or less a necessity when designing a collection for presentation, as a simple black pump just doesn't cut it at Parsons this far into the program.  However, it only recently occurred to me that some of the hats I've been working on this summer could easily fit into my summer assignment, and in fact add some much needed whimsy in what is often such a serious undertaking.  Who knows, maybe I just had my inspiration on the brain the entire time, subconsciously designing and creating them.

In any case, here is the hat I'm working on at the moment, a hot pink horsehair chenille braid cone that I had sewn and blocked at Albrizio this past week:





The chenille braid was a little dusty when I purchased it, and as luck would have it the most affected area ended up at the tip of the cone.  Though washable, I didn't want to risk washing away the hat's sizing so I had to find another solution.  Begging for some kind of embellishment, I decided on a cascade of different types of clear, white, red, and fuchsia beads in different sizes and finishes (matte, shiny, irridescent), which were also part of my summer collection.  Needless to say, this is only the tip of the iceberg.

Tuesday, August 9, 2011

HATS: The Only Millinery Magazine Published in America

I recently got hold of two issues of "Hats" magazine, also known as "The Only Millinery Magazine Published in America."



These beauties, from June and July 1965, are filled to the brim with the latest hat trends, advertisements, fashion illustrations and photography, season reports on fabrics and trims, and even a "Dear Abby" style column where women asked questions about their hat-related woes.





This last tidbit is about none other than Ann Albrizio and her millinery runway report on styles, trends and materials.  I wish fashion magazines today were written with such spunk, pizazz and... well... personality.



The last line of this reads: "Not for chewing, the dangling chin straps."


Remember my mild obsession with hair hats?  The caption for this reads, "Now an evening hairdo with the fringe on top - and all around the head - shapes up like a switched-on hat."  Thank you, Haute Coiffure Francaise!

Wednesday, June 15, 2011

works in progress: felt hats

I had posted photos of this flat top cone hat being blocked at Albrizio a few weeks ago.  Here it is in an impromptu photoshoot:




The more I look at it, the more it reminds me of a dunce cap...


... which is not necessarily what I was going for:




The hat is not yet finished; I was considering taking it in a whole new direction with grommets or studs, but got sidetracked with some felting adventures.  I starting working with some felting wool and an inspirational photo of a stormy night:



I was going to felt this onto the hat itself, when I decided that would be taking the easy way out, and perhaps even cheapen my Nefertiti-dunce cap combo further.  So after a few more hours of work I ended up with a felt tilt cap:


So now I have two hats in progress, which again is not really what I was going for.  My tilt cap, which happens to be the first thing I've ever felted, is satisfactory, but it does need a ribbon or something to attach it securely to the head.  I am also debating getting some flowers, felted or otherwise, to attach to it.  Or maybe I'll wake up tomorrow morning with something completely different in mind.

There is also the matter of an Italian straw turban that was also blocked during my Albrizio trip.  I'll revisit that in the days to come.

Monday, May 16, 2011

Albrizio Millinery

A couple weeks ago, I finally made it over to Albrizio Millinery and successfully had two hats constructed in record time.  Albrizio is a slice of hat heaven in New York City.  With their vast assortment of hat blocks, expert craftsmanship and a true love for hat-making the folks at Albrizio, under the direction of David Steele (Ann Albrizio's nephew), are eager, knowledgeable and wonderful to work with, even if you're just a beginner like myself.  In less than an hour, David had shown me around the workplace and gave me a basic rundown of hat blocking and sewing hats from straw braid.

assortment of wooden hat blocks at Albrizio

We started off with a wool felt hood (purchased at Manhatco Hat Supply), which was blocked into a dramatic tall cone-shaped hat with a flat top:

the wool felt hood was sequentially steamed, stretched and roped into the block shape
more steaming and tightening with the ropes helped give the hood its characteristic grooves
as the hat is steamed some more, it conforms precisely to the hat block shape

The hat brim was then trimmed and finished with a grosgrain sweatband, and sized to maintain its shape.

The second hat, made out of a multi-color Italian straw braid (also purchased at Manhatco), was slightly more tricky.  David began sewing the hat and gradually molded it to the turban hat block I had selected:

David Steele sewing the straw turban with a chain stitch machine
after the hat was sewn, it was also steamed and roped around the hat block to create the final shape

I am planning on doing some more things with these hats, so you'll have to stay posted for additional photos of the finished products.  In the meantime, feel free to take advantage of the great resource that is Albrizio, one of the most knowledgeable, friendly and accommodating vendors I have encountered in the Garment Center.

Albrizio
30 W 39th Street, 4th floor
New York, NY 10018
tel. 212.719.5290  (call first)
Monday-Friday 9:30-4:30 pm